In the waning days of our time on the Left Coast, we regaled you with the divine incantations of our exquisite 5-samosa meal at the Krishna Temple in Berkeley. We then…paused. And now, it is only fitting that we resume our global Indian gastronomical odyssey with a review of Dosa-n-Curry (DnC), formerly called Dosa Temple. Based on its former name, we were sure to read up on Consciousness Studies prior to our visit but, sadly, found this to be irrelevant.
Dosa Temple sports a reasonably clean, modern interior. In keeping with Temple traditions, however, the restaurant featured uneven floors with an upper seating area approximately 2 feet higher than the lower (which was presumably reserved for the Untouchables). Faux stone paneling accented the faux wood paneling; however, despite an exhaustive search, we were unable to locate the ornate wood screens so common on the Left Coast (clearly the restaurateurs are unaware of Restaurant Depot, the world’s sole supplier of such screens). We were pleased to see that the few mirrors were entirely free of oily residue.
On this visit, we were joined by a large group of UVa alumni and friends, allowing us to sample DnC’s offers deeply. The menu consists entirely of South Indian vegetarian delicacies and, as its name might suggest, features a particularly large selection of dosas and curries. The colorful and terse menu was punctuated by one nagging error: Dosa’s.
We began our meal with the chilli bhajji ($5), a fried dough-covered banana pepper accompanied by 3-day-old iceberg lettuce shreds—clearly not suitable for human consumption. The pepper, while quite spicy, was insufficiently crispy. Shortly thereafter, Walt’s paper masala dosa ($12) arrived. This cigar-shaped monstrosity had a ~3.5 foot length and an 8 inch diameter, and displayed exquisite radial uniformity in thickness and cookitude, indicating to us that a true culinary virtuoso was holding forth in the kitchen. Needless to say, all of the men present were overwhelmed and humbled by the massive proportions of this girthy crèpe-tube. The vegetarian eigen dish, aloo ghobi ($12), exhibited near-perfect cookitude and the bise bela bath ($9), while not as good as the dish served up by UP in Berkeley, did come with an exquisitely spicy pickle. The coconut rice ($10) was exceptionally well seasoned, and the peshawary naan ($4) was, to our great surprise and delight, devoid of cherry pie filling. The mango lassi ($3) was very frothy, strangely non-viscous-looking, and yet actually quite viscous…‽
Near the conclusion of the meal, the overeager waiter taunted Walt, declaring “I knew that you were not going to finish,” with a smug grin betraying what we can only assume was a perverse sense of schadenfreude. Notwithstanding, the resumption of Masala Chaat’s operations at DnC was a worthwhile affair. Despite an overeager wait staff and a few missteps here and there, DnC is a solid four samosa (▲▲▲▲) restaurant that will set you back two rupees (₨ ₨), for a samosa-to-rupee ratio (▲/₨) of 2.0. DnC may have changed its name from Dosa Temple to appeal to a more diverse clientele, but it certainly retains its divine heritage.